Monday, May 19, 2008

Rememberance and Regeneration in Berlin

Being the organised Altmanns that we are, we'd booked a bus to take us from the ski slopes of Tignes, France, to the airport at Geneva for our flight to Berlin. There we'd meet Jane's parents for 5 days. However when we bought the bus tickets we did trust that the French ticket vendor's nodding meant he understood the difference between the English words "Saturday" and "Sunday". After some tears and several very poor attempts to communicate with various French people, we determined that a 230 Euro taxi ride was our only option to get to our flight on time (or face the 28 hour bus trip back to London without a visit to Berlin). When it came to paying for the taxi Greg had a brief lesson in currencies and conversion when he realised Switzerland does not solely use the Euro and that 100 Swiss Francs is only worth 60 Euro.
We did eventually arrive safely (and poorer) in Berlin, staying with the Mitchells in a terrific little apartment right in the centre of the city.So much 20th century history was centred right in Berlin: the 2nd World War, The Holocaust and of course the Berlin Wall which divided the East from the West during the Cold War... And who can forget Michael Jackson did a tour here in 1988! We all agreed the best introduction to the city would be a walking tour. So many enticing museums and galleries we soon learnt we'd need closer to a year than a week to do it justice. We made a list of the places we'd most like to see and made ourselves familiar with Berlin's terrific public transport system.
The most famous street in Berlin is "Unter den Linden", meaning "Under the Lime Trees". Many historical buildings line this street. Our walking tour spent a good hour down here so you'll have to do the trip to get all the information. At the end of the road is the well-known landmark, The Brandenburg Gate. Built between 1788 and 1791, it is a major symbol of Germany. The Berlin Wall actually crossed the front of the gate and huge curtains were hung between the pillars to stop the East being able to look through to the West (or the other way around). The Bronze statue on top is called the Quadriga. Napoleon actually stole the Quadriga and moved it to Paris in 1806 (after he defeated Prussia). It was returned in 1814 when Napoleon was defeated!
The Fernsehturm (TV tower) dominates the skyline of the city. You'll see it in the background of many of our photos. It's based at Alexanderplatz (the huge square) and is the second highest building in the European Union at 368 meters. Visits to the top are pricey so we opted for the cheaper view. We rode the lifts to the top of the Reichstag Building for afternoon tea (coffee and cake is a German-Austrian tradition after all!).The Reichstag is the seat of the German parliament. It was severely damaged during the 2ndWW but has been lovingly restored. In fact the Western façade was the site for Michael Jackson's concert.
The New Jewish Museum gave insight into the background of the Jewish religion throughout time. We learnt more about the Holocaust and were all very affected by the memorials and belongings from persecuted Jews. Daniel Libeskind designed the building and spine-tingling features within it, including the Holocaust Tower and Memory Void.
Another sobering experience was our visit at the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe. Its a memorial consisting of 2711 concrete slabs covering an area of 19,000 square metres. It was designed by Peter Eisenman. Berlin has some other touching memorials. The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, which depicts the sculptress holding the son she lost to the war.We also saw the Book Burning Memorial. On the night of May 10, 1933, in most German university towns, nationalist students marched in torchlight parades "against the un-German spirit." The students burned upwards of 25,000 volumes of "un-German" books. If you look closely you might see the empty bookshelves through the glass.The Berlin wall separated East Berlin and West Berlin for 28 years, from the day construction began on August 13, 1961 until it was dismantled in 1989. The intent after the 2nd World War was for the occupying powers to govern Germany together inside the 1947 borders. However Cold War tension caused the French, British and American zones to be formed into the Federal Republic of Germany (and West Berlin), excluding the Soviet zone, which then formed the German Democratic Republic (including East Berlin). The wall was put up to stop the huge number of people leaving the Eastern (communist) side to live on the Western side. During the time that the wall separated East from West at least 133 people were confirmed killed trying to cross the Wall into West Berlin, according to official figures. A part of the Berlin Wall has been left as a museum. The wall was originally over 155 kms long. The no man's land between the two barriers became widely known as the "death strip".
This church sat in No man's land until 1983 when it was destroyed, only 6 years before the wall came down.
A new chapel has been built on the sight to commemorate the church and all that happened here.Berlin truly was an amazing place to visit. A sobering place, full of lessons to be potentially learnt from past mistakes. The people are trying to move on and make new beginnings without forgetting the past. Berlin's rate of building and reconstruction is third in the world after Dubai and Shanghai, a sign that the city is changing and regenerating after a very difficult century.

Monday, May 05, 2008

Skiing in France: Another "Once in a Lifetime Experience"

Our most recent travels began with a flight to London followed by a gruelling 28 hour bus trip to Tignes, France. The tour was organised by Fanatics, an Australian company based in London. We slept away the miles with 24 other Aussies and 4 Kiwis. Some needed the aid of sleeping tablets (read: Greg) whilst others have talent for sleeping anywhere any time (read: Jane). The most exciting part of the bus trip was driving right on to a double decker train, inside the double height carriages and going through the Channel Tunnel.
We arrived at Tignes in the afternoon to full sunshine and stunning mountains everywhere you looked.During the week we both took ski lessons in the morning and skied each afternoon to practise what we'd learnt. Jane perhaps took one step too far and led Greg down a blue run on his first day on ski's. Remember the boy had only recently seen snow for the first time!! He survived the test and was doing parallel turns by the end of the week.The weather was brilliant. Sunshine during the day and fresh snow falling at night! The last day skiing wasn't so nice but we still managed a few runs. We did have to put up with collecting an inch of snow covering whilst sitting on the chair lifts though!The ski fields were so huge. We could have gone the whole week skiing down a different run each time. We've been utterly spoilt for the Australian ski fields now we know what it can be like. On Thursday we took a series of lifts up the Grande Motte (3656m), Tignes tallest peak.
There's a Glacier on the mountain and a grotto has been carved into it. Some ice sculptures have had some fun inside and the entrance fee brings some more revenue into this already exorbitantly priced resort. We were sucked in.
The ski instructors put on a great show one evening. The jumps were amazing. Groups of 8 did some formation skiing down the hill. Too fast to catch on the camera.
The group of people on tour were fantastic fun. We made some great friends. Now we keep missing out on all their reunions down in London! Here we are : The Ski bunnies!In the evenings we had a Trivia Night, huge snow ball fight, night-time toboganning, 80's bowling night and superhero dress-up party. Improvisation was called for since we were unprepared for superhero attire. Hence Garbage 1 and Garbage 2 were created!The eighties bowling was a hit. Greg showed us how it was done.
Jane's next hairdo?

A Fairy Tale Wedding in a Fairy Tale Land

At the end of March we were privileged to attend the wedding of two good friends from Southampton. Karen and Dave had become an item (after being friends for years) whilst we were living in Southampton. We joked when we left the city that the next time we saw them might be at their wedding- ha ha. And it was!! Whilst in Italy on our adventures last year we received a text to say they'd got engaged.Karen grew up in Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk and the wedding reception was held near her home town just out of Lavenham.
Lavenham is famous for its picture book crooked houses. It's not hard to see why!! We stayed in a gem of a pub called The Angel, just off the Market Square. The 6 rooms are above the kitchens and the floors are a little wonky to remind you you're in a building built centuries ago!There wasn't a whole lot of time for exploration but we did find the local church: St Peter and St Pauls. Lavenham was built on the back of money from the wool trade in the 15th and 16th century and the church was a product of this wealthy period. Its such a grand church for such a small village. Somebody else was getting married that day too! Karen and Dave were married in a small church in Bury.
Lavenham has plenty of galleries to browse and little tearooms to sit in and watch all the tourist buses drive past.
The wedding reception was held in a restored barn complete with exposed beams and ivy and ribbons wound around the pylons. Truly a fairy tale sight! To top off the experience a band arrived and we danced into the evening. A barn dance was a terrific way to mix all the guests up and we all had plenty of laughs.
The following day we drove the 9 hours back to bonny Scotland for work on Monday!